Cathedrals – I am collecting new ones on this trip like a Scottish walker might bag Munros. Aachen, Cologne, Limburg, Vienna, Ljubljana amongst some of our visits but we have spent two days this week in the Central Region of France and have discovered two Romanesque Gems. 

Firstly there is the cathedral at Autun. Although added to in the 13th and much renovated in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the core Romanesque design is superb. It is unusual in France having a central spire but also two sumptuous western towers. The most important architectural features,however, are the sculptures. There is a last judgement tympanum in the west portal and the capitals of the nave and choir pillars are all typical Romanesque. All are by the renowned twelfth century sculptor of Cluny, Vezeley and Autun, Gislebertus. Some of the capitals are copies of the originals which are in the Musée Rolin in the city. 

Most importantly, is that, it is thought Gislebertus signed the lintel under the Tympanum, Gislebertus hoc fecit or ‘Gislebertus made this’. Some historians claim it is not the artist but the patron, but if it is Gislebertus the sculptor it would be one of the earliest signed work in western art. Cardinal Rolin was born and lived in Autun and Van Eyk’s famous study of the Madonna with Chancellor Rolin, now in the Louvre, depicts Autun, and hung in the cathedral around 1800. It is a pity the Musée Rolin is closed (until 2028!) as more sculpture from the cathedral, including the famous Temptation of Eve could have been seen, with the original capital carvings. This carving, of which only a copy can be seen, of Eve tempting Adam is purely Romanesque but with a remarkably alluring stare created in stone.

The church is dedicated to St Lazare and the stained glass in the east window depicts the events in St John’s gospel with Jesus, Lazarus, Mary Magdalene and Martha. 

Secondly is the Church of Notre Dame at La Charité-sur-Loire. We had not planned to visit this town but what a good job we did. It must be one of the most complete Cluniac abbey churches with little gothic addition in Europe, barely a pointed arch in sight. I say complete although much of the nave and the south east tower were lost to a disastrous seventeenth century fire. When the church was rebuilt only three of the original eight bays were replaced, leaving the north west tower separated from the current church. The south west tower was never rebuilt. Worse was to follow after the French Revolution with the monastery being destroyed and the whole north west corner being  taken over by houses. However it suffered less than the great cathedral at Cluny which was almost totally destroyed.

Worse may have followed in the nineteenth century when there were plans to improve the road from Paris to Nevers, which included pulling down what was then a medieval ruin. We must thank the writer Prosper Mérimée, who campaigned successfully for its being saved, and the road took a route further east of the town. 

In the last few years the Corporation has started a renovation project trying to restore the former monastery and north west corner. It is a slow process and hasn’t yet captured the tourist imagination but let’s hope for its future as such an important exhibition of Cluniac architecture. The only odd thing was the modern stained glass in nearly all the windows – an abstract mix of yellows and reds, not unlike Murano glass. 

Two years ago we visited Vezeley (click on link) and these latest two have enhanced our understanding of Cluniac life, architecture and the pilgrim culture in the area associated with Santiago de Compestela. It is tempting to stand on the bridge at La Charité and imagine its Abbey at its magnificent best with both the western towers and the full extended nave, dominating the small medieval town.